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Walk the wagon-rutted streets of Pompeii

The wagon-ruts along Via dell'Abbondanza are worn pale and smooth in the stone, two grooves you can lay your foot into after two thousand years of cart wheels. A guard by one of the shuttered houses mentions, almost apologetically, that they're opened only on rotation, a few rooms a week, to keep the frescoes from fading in the light. In August the dust smells hot, chalky, like a struck match gone out. Somewhere near the stepping-stones you remember AD79, the ash falling for two days straight, and later, past a bakery, the plaster cast of a dog still curled where it died, legs pulled in tight, waiting for something that never came.

Practical

Cost
~$20 entrance fee
Best time
Spring or autumn, to avoid summer heat and crowds
Difficulty
Moderate
Time it takes
3–5 hours to see the main sites
What people get wrong
People treat it as a quick photo stop and rush through in under an hour, missing the side streets and houses where most of the detail is; they also underestimate the heat and the uneven stone paving, and skip water and proper shoes.
With
A group

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