Skip to content
The Life List

Travel

Walk the Kumano Kodo

A place: Japan

Pilgrims have walked these forest paths on the Kii peninsula for about a thousand years, and the stone steps are worn into shallow bowls. The Nakahechi route to the Hongu shrine takes four days, sleeping in family-run inns that forward your bag to the next one. Cedars close overhead and it is often raining, which suits the place. Stamp stations along the path have ink pads for a small book. By the third day the walking is just what you do, and you notice when a bird stops singing.

Practical

Cost
$700–1,000 for four nights
Best time
March to May, October to November
Difficulty
Moderate
Time it takes
Four days
What people get wrong
Booking inns late. There are few of them on the route, and they fill months ahead in spring.
With
One other person

Also this

  • Wait for the train at the Slam Dunk crossing in Kamakura

    What you remember afterwards isn't the train, small and green, already leaving, but the waiting: the barrier bell, the specific hush of thirty strangers holding phones still — and behind it all, the sea doing nothing dramatic.

    Best time:Any season; clearest skies October–March, avoid the June rainy season

  • Walk the torii tunnel at Fushimi Inari before the tour buses arrive

    The first gate is not what you expect: vermillion paint still tacky at the edges, and beneath it, stencilled in white, the name of a noodle company you have never heard of.

    Best time:Any time of year; spring and autumn give the mildest walking weather

  • See the cherry blossom in Kyoto

    The blossom lasts about a week, and the whole country follows a forecast for it, like weather.

    Best time:Late March to early April, depending on the year

  • Sleep in a temple on Mount Koya

    Koyasan is a mountain town of more than a hundred temples, and about fifty of them take guests.

    Best time:All year; snow in winter

  • Snowboard in Niseko

    Cold air comes off the Sea of Japan, picks up moisture and dumps it on Hokkaido as snow so dry it squeaks.

    Best time:Mid-December to March; January is deepest

More in Travel.