Skip to content
The Life List

Travel

Spend a week somewhere you can't read a single sign

The menu in a Tbilisi cellar restaurant has no photos and no Latin letters, so you point at a word that looks promising and a woman brings you khinkali, dumplings the size of a fist, and you eat them for breakfast because that's what arrived. By day three you've stopped translating in your head and started reading shapes: this loop means bread, this one means wine. Georgian uses its own alphabet, Mkhedruli, unrelated to anything you know, which is exactly the point. A phrasebook stays in your bag mostly unopened, useful less for words than for the fact that holding it makes strangers patient with you. What you keep is the taste of dumpling broth burning your tongue at 8am.

Practical

Cost
$600–1,200 for a week
Best time
Spring and autumn, when Tbilisi is mild and mountain roads are open
Difficulty
Moderate
Time it takes
One week
What people get wrong
People lean on translation apps constantly instead of watching context, which delays the shift from anxiety to habit; others try to memorise the alphabet before arriving instead of just going and picking it up on signs.
With
Alone

Also this

  • Visit Georgia

    At some point in the evening a man you met an hour ago stands up, holds his glass at chest height, and talks for four minutes about your grandparents, whom he has never met and whose names he does not know.

    Best time:Late spring and early autumn; mountain roads open roughly June to October

  • Eat breakfast in one country and dinner in another

    The bakery in Kehl still smells of warm pretzels when you cross the Rhine into France.

    Best time:Spring through early autumn, for a comfortable walk over the Rhine

  • Track down the smallest museum in a capital city

    It rained the first time, which felt right, because the barge smelled like wet rope and everything inside was built for water.

    Best time:Spring to autumn, when canal walking is pleasant

  • Sleep on a futon in a traditional ryokan

    You leave the room to eat, and come back to find it's changed shape.

    Best time:Cherry blossom (Mar–Apr) or autumn leaves (Oct–Nov), though any season works

  • Give one museum your entire day

    By four in the afternoon most of the crowd has already gone, off to catch a train or an early dinner, and you have the Denon wing nearly to yourself.

    Best time:Spring or autumn, avoiding summer crowds and school holidays

More in Travel.