Skip to content
The Life List

Travel

Cross Hong Kong harbour on the Star Ferry

The deckhand loops a thick rope around the bollard before the boat has quite stopped moving, a small violence that never seems to worry him. Star Ferry has crossed this stretch of water between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui since 1888, back when Hong Kong was mostly hillside and the harbour was twice as wide. The fare is still only a few Hong Kong dollars each way. Eight minutes out, the container ships loom close enough to read their names, and the skyline behind you stacks itself taller with every glance back. You end up on the wrong side, and go straight back.

Practical

Cost
$0.30–0.50 each way
Best time
Any time; clearest skyline views in autumn (Oct–Dec)
Difficulty
Easy
Time it takes
8–10 minute crossing, plus a short queue
What people get wrong
People book a harbour cruise for the view and skip the ferry itself, not realising this working commuter route is the actual experience. Others pay extra for the upper deck when the lower deck, with its diesel smell and worn wooden benches, is the one worth having.
With
A group

Also this

  • Eat breakfast in one country and dinner in another

    The bakery in Kehl still smells of warm pretzels when you cross the Rhine into France.

    Best time:Spring through early autumn, for a comfortable walk over the Rhine

  • Track down the smallest museum in a capital city

    It rained the first time, which felt right, because the barge smelled like wet rope and everything inside was built for water.

    Best time:Spring to autumn, when canal walking is pleasant

  • Sleep on a futon in a traditional ryokan

    You leave the room to eat, and come back to find it's changed shape.

    Best time:Cherry blossom (Mar–Apr) or autumn leaves (Oct–Nov), though any season works

  • Give one museum your entire day

    By four in the afternoon most of the crowd has already gone, off to catch a train or an early dinner, and you have the Denon wing nearly to yourself.

    Best time:Spring or autumn, avoiding summer crowds and school holidays

  • Get properly lost in Venice without a map

    Somewhere around your third dead end you'll smell frying fish through a window and hear a woman shouting at someone two floors up in dialect you don't understand, and that's the afternoon working as intended.

    Best time:April–May or September–October, avoiding August heat and crowds

More in Travel.